Here you will find an ever expanding collection of information and photo’s pertaining to the new Ford Transit Van/Wagon. This page will be regularly updated.
2016 Ford Transit Exterior
Exterior images of my new 2016 Ford Transit.
2016 Ford Transit Measurements
Measurements throughout the original 2016 Ford Transit Medium Roof Long Wheelbase vehicle.
2016 Ford Transit Doors
Images pertaining to the doors of the Ford Transit van/Wagon.
2016 Ford Transit Windows
Featuring window details of the Ford Transit.
2016 Ford Transit Electrical
Collection of images of the Transit’s electrical system, including wiring, light fictures and other components.
2016 Ford Transit Mechanical
Anything to do with the engine and powertrain of the Ford Transit.
2016 Ford Transit Miscellaneous
Collection of images of the Ford Transit that don’t fit any other category.
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Beautiful van Van! Best of luck with your upcoming conversion!
Thank you for the measurements of the cargo area. That was very helpful. Can you tell me the length, width and height of the raised area for the rear wheels on the Transit 2500 cargo area? I’m trying to do a layout for a short wheelbase van.
I took a current picture, which makes it simpler to understand.
The height measurements are from the bottom of the metal floor, i.e. bottom of the floor ribs.
I just put in the flooring and insulation, but other images on this page will show you the original.
Good luck with your plans and keep in touch!
2 more questions
Can I disconnect some of the cargo lights?
What are you using to skin the walls and ceiling?
Can I disconnect some of the cargo lights?
The cargo lights are an often discussed issue. Ford didn’t include any switches to regulate the use of these lights and when use as an RV these lights are bothersome. They will automatically switch off after 30 minutes, but I don’t want them on when I leave one or more doors open, when I’m camping. Just removing the bulbs, should be the easiest solution. I just started working on the Murphy bed and the window behind it and the first thing I encountered was the wireway that contains the wiring of these lights. I haven’t decided yet what to do with it (relocate it to within the wall cavity or incorporate it into the wall cabinets), but will likely disuse the current cargo lights entirely and install new 12V wall and ceiling lighting connected to the future house batteries. If you don’t plan separate house batteries, you would be able to connect a separate wiring system for your own lights to the CCP (Customer Connection Point).
What are you using to skin the walls and ceiling?
I plan to use luan or other 1/8 inch wood materials behind cabinets and may use the same material with a formica finish where the walls are visible. May even use a ‘stainless steel’ look in the kitchen. I haven’t decided on a ceiling material, but that may be luan sheathing with a headliner fabric finish.
Perfect, thank you
Do you have information on your approach to insulating the van?
The subject of insulation is the often discussed, yet there is no real consensus about the materials that should be used.
Before getting into the details, I would include ventilation into the discussion, as it relates to temperature and moisture control.
Another relevant issue is where the vehicle has its primary use; in (Northern) cold climates or in ski-country, the approach of insulation differs greatly from those in warmer climates.
That said and talking about warmer climates, I would take the middle road. Over-insulating the vehicle doesn’t protect against cold penetration nor will it keep the heat out in summer. Your interior is small and subject to any change in temperature. Too may entry points that can’t be protected, such as the van’s A/C vents and the openings around the doors. Moreover, frequent entering and exiting the vehicle greatly affects the condition inside. The same goes for under-insulation.
The right ventilation can alleviate many issues. In bad weather, one tends to stay inside a closed vehicle, and that includes cooking. Both increase the chance of condensation. During warm periods, heat can quickly make the interior a hostile place, despite good insulation. When there is a cold spell, only a good heater can make a cold morning more comfortable. In all of these cases, the right ventilation will make a big difference. It can prevent or remove condensation, reduce the interior temps to ambient outside temps in summer and warm up the interior when it is cold quicker than the insulation would allow.
Natural ventilation can be achieved by combining a standard roof vent with a floor vent, thus allowing the natural flow of air between entry and exit points. Additional use of mechanical fans will only improve circulation.
Then there are the insulation materials. Let you guide your choice by your own preferences, since there is no consensus amongst van builders. Many are convinced to have found the best solution, but each has its own drawbacks.
The most popular materials that are used in todays van conversions are Poly-Iso, Thinsulate, spray foam, denim and regular fiberglass. The often used Reflectix has no insulation value on its own, but can be used as insulation when combined with an adjoining air space. Your choice comes down to four factors: price, R-value, convenience and availability.
Thinsulate is easy to work with, pricey and has only average insulation properties.
Poly-Iso is cheap and has one of the highest R-values, but is difficult to apply in tight areas.
Single cell spray foam is pricey, has a good R-value, but once applied, it’s difficult to access the wiring underneath.
Denim is easy to apply and is a great temperature and sound insulator, but must be treated against moisture absorption.
I have good experiences with fiberglass, which is cheap and readily available, but unfriendly to work with. People often complain about mouse infestations and sagging, yet I have always been fortunate.
Currently, I would choose mainly Poly-Iso in combination with either Thinsulate or Denim for the tight spots and some spray foam for small gaps. In reality, there is no right or wrong; ANY insulation is likely to do more than the lack of sufficient insulation in many commercial conversions/RVs!
I just want to add ceiling lights that will remain on when the engine is off for about 4 hours and use a TV/DVD for about 4 hours with the engine off as well. How would I go about installing the ceiling lights using the CCP. Also, could I connect a 12V TV to the CCP as well or should I go with a small power inverter for the TV? I have a diesel 2016 Transit with the 2 heavy duty AGM batteries
Having a second battery makes things easier, but you always have to make sure that the total draw by your lights and electronics won’t deplete your starting battery(s).
The CCP should be always on and can supply the electricity you need. Using an inverter is always a possibility, though in this case not the most efficient. A 12V TV would avoid transforming from 12V to 110V and back to the lower internal voltage of the TV. On the other hand, you may be able to use the inverter for other purposes as well.
In addition to any ceiling lights you want to install, the front cargo area lights and the two rear door lights will still stay on for about 30 minutes after opening/closing the doors. These are easy to disable by disconnecting the wires at each lights, or just by locking the doors with your key fob after each entry.
Your CCP on the bottom side of the drivers seat, should have three studs; each can deliver max. 60 amps and is protected with a fuse. The closest grounding point is located between the two front seats under the rubber floor mat. You can look at the BEMM for all available grounding points.
I would install a small fuse box (or larger, depending on your needs) and connect your lights, TV, etc. to that for additional safety and use on/off switches, to turn on your gadgets.
I plan to use tongue and groove cedar or pine planks on the ceiling and walls. They are 1/4 inches thinks and are stocked at Home Depot. What did you do with your wire way? How did you build around it ?
I discarded the bulky, plastic wire loom with the intension to move the wiring into the wall cavity behind it. And while some have succeeded in this endeavor, it involves cutting and reattaching all the wires. That is something I wouldn’t do; it will very likely also invalidate some or all of the factory warranties on the van, when something happens.
While I haven’t proceeded yet, I will attempt to move the wires up into the corner where the ceiling and walls meet and build cabinets around them. If the situation allows it, I will use these small, square wire channels to hide them; that would probably enable me to also add my own wiring with ease.
I’ll see what my options are. I hope to finally pick my van up next week as the dealer is finishing up recall repairs. I agree that its a bad idea to cut the wires.
Good luck with your new van!
I have a 2016 350 Transit XLT with sync and was wondering if you figured out how to remove the radio yet ?
Yes, I started a long time ago to replace the radio and was able to remove and install the Double Din replacement kit. Had some trouble with the new radio at the time and other work on the conversion took precedence. I’m always catching up on things and expect to continue this job in a couple of months.
Right now, I have to finish the bed and part of the insulation. I’m also expecting some new solar panels and they are also more urgent. While doing the conversion and writing about it on the website and making the videos, I’m also periodically taking time off to do some traveling. So a bed and electric is more needed.
If you need some specific info on removing the radio or the DDin kit, just let me know in a comment or write an email. I’ll give you the information that I have!
Your documentation is so helpful. Thanks for doing the extra effort. I see you put in a floor vent, which was quite impressive. What is the floor vent for? Does it connect to some thing?
Thanks for the feedback!
The floor vent might be one of the most important features of this conversion. With the recent installation of my MaxxAir roof vent, I finally have been able to evaluate its properties.
My floor vent connects to an existing opening underneath the van; the top will be incorporated into the lower cabinets of my Murphy Bed.
In summer, temperatures underneath the vehicle (always in the shade) are substantially cooler than the ambient temperature. With the floor vent opposite of the roof vent and much lower, the temperature difference between bottom and top, creates natural convection, at least that was the premise. With both installed now, I have been able to verify that. That means a constant, non-mechanical air-flow from the floor to the roof. This air-flow has a cooling effect on the skin.
With the solar installed now, I have also been able to test the floor vent, while the roof vent fan is working. That creates a humongous air-flow inside the van. I had a ‘inline’ fan ready, to be installed inside the floor vent tubing, but it’s unlikely that that will happen. Just not necessary. With winter closing in rapidly (in Central Florida), I won’t be able to register realtime temperature differences; I have to do that when summer arrives, but it opens up much more opportunities to, for instance, leave Joey (my dog) inside the van when that’s necessary.
You can read/view much more about the floor vent here: http://188.8.131.52/projects/mod-rv-floor-vent